Windmill Cushion

Windmill Cushion

This cushion has been designed as a scaled up version of my square from the 2021 Knitcraft/Hobbycraft Granny Square Month Crochet Along. You can find that pattern and all the CAL details here.

This cushion uses traditional UK treble crochet and is constructed diagonally from corner to centre. Each triangular colour block is completed before moving on to the next. This twist on square construction also gives a pleasing rotating diagonal texture to the rows. Each quadrant uses the edge of the previous triangle as its foundation, so there is only 1 seam, joining the final triangle to the first. Using clever sewing this seam is rendered invisible giving an infinitely turning windmill of colour.

The square could be constructed in 4 separate colours, or in 2 colours, placed opposite each other. Three rows of double crochet in a contrasting colour surround the motif to form the border. The finished square is 40cm x 40cm including the white border.

The finished square is sewn to a pre-made cushion cover so you don’t need to work a back, or worry about lining or fastenings!

You will need

• 5mm crochet hook

• Yarn needle

• Scissors

• Knitcraft Cotton Blend Plain yarn in: Yarn 1: Bright Blue (~25g), Yarn 2: Hot Pink (~25g), Yarn 3: Teal (~25g), Yarn 4: Yellow (~25g), Yarn 5/border: White (~15g)

• Hobbycraft Grey Canvas Cushion Cover 40cm x 40cm

• 40cm x 40cm cushion pad

• Sewing needle and white thread (or if you border is not white, thread to match)

• 8 Safety pins

Note on the yarn: This yarn is marketed as DK but works up more like an aran weight. If using another brand, you are advised to use Aran weight yarn to reach gauge.

Note on the yarn: This yarn is marketed as DK but works up more like an aran weight. If using another brand, you are advised to use Aran weight yarn with the 5mm hook to reach gauge.

Stitches Used (UK terms) and abbreviations

Slip Stitch (SS)

Chain (Ch)

Double Crochet (Dc)

Treble Crochet (Tr)

Treble crochet 3 together at the end of a row (Tr3tog): Yarn over and then insert the hook into the next stitch. Yarn over and draw up a loop (3 loops on your hook). Yarn over and pull through 2 loops (2 loops on your hook). Yarn over and insert your hook into the next stitch along. Yarn over and draw up a loop (4 loops on your hook). Yarn over and pull through 2 loops (3 loops on your hook). Yarn over and insert your hook into the next stitch along. Yarn over and draw up a loop (5 loops on your hook). Yarn over and pull through 2 loops (4 loops on your hook). Yarn over and pull through all four loops. You will have 1 loop left on your hook.

Treble crochet 3 together at the beginning of a row (Ch2, Tr2tog): Chain 2, Yarn over and then insert the hook into the next stitch (not the one at the base of the chain). Yarn over and draw up a loop (3 loops on your hook). Yarn over and pull through 2 loops (2 loops on your hook). Yarn over and insert your hook into the next stitch along. Yarn over and draw up a loop (4 loops on your hook). Yarn over and pull through 2 loops (3 loops on your hook). Yarn over and pull through 3 loops. You will have 1 loop left on your hook.

Pattern notes

• This pattern is written in UK crochet terms

• Work your first row into the back bump of the starting chain. This is important for seaming up the square at the end.

• The chain 2 at the beginning of a row counts as a stitch. Do not work into the stitch directly below it.

• This pattern is worked in rows. Turn your work after every row (except for the border).

• If you are a very tight chainer you might like to move up a hook size for the starting chain. Alternatively, consciously crochet it loosely so that you don’t have one tight edge.

• The finished square will build in opposite directions for right- and left-handed crocheters. I have included both left and right handed images for each step to avoid confusion.

• Row 4.1 means triangle 4, row 1. Row 3.2 means triangle 3, row 2 and so on.

Gauge

Your first triangle should be right-angled in shape. The two short sides should be 25-26cm in length and the long side should be ~36cm. If your triangle is significantly bigger, make it again using a 4.5mm or 4mm hook. If your triangle is much smaller than it ought to be, remake using a 5.5mm or 6mm hook. Although the recommended yarn is advertised as DK, it is more like a typical Aran weight, and if using another yarn, you meet gauge easier using Aran yarn.

Row 1.2: Ch2, Tr2tog, 1Tr in each of the next 34 stitches. Don’t work into the stitch directly below the starting chain 2 (Fig 4). When you get to the end of the row make sure the last Tr goes into the turning chain from the row below to keep the edges straight (Figs 5 a&b). (35 stitches).

Note: The starting “Ch2, Tr2tog” combination is a replacement for a Tr3tog and so counts as one stitch here, and everywhere else it is mentioned.

Row 1.3: Ch2 (counts as a stitch). 1 Tr in each of the next 31 stitches, don’t work into the stitch directly below the starting chain 2. Tr3tog. (33 stitches)

Note: The Tr3tog will be worked over 2 regular trebles and the Tr3tog from the previous row (Fig 6, Fig 7). The Tr3tog will have 1 ‘v’ on the top of the stitch, work under this ‘v’.

Row 1.4: Ch2, Tr2tog, 1Tr in each of the next 30 stitches. (31 stitches)

Row 1.5: Ch2, 1 Tr in each of the next 27 stitches. Tr3tog. (29 stitches)

Row 1.6: Ch2, Tr2tog, 1Tr in each of the next 26 stitches. (27 stitches)

Row 1.7: Ch2, 1 Tr in each of the next 23 stitches. Tr3tog. (25 stitches)

Row 1.8: Ch2, Tr2tog, 1Tr in each of the next 22 stitches. (23 stitches)

Row 1.9: Ch2, 1 Tr in each of the next 19 stitches. Tr3tog. (21 stitches)

Row 1.10: Ch2, Tr2tog, 1Tr in each of the next 18 stitches. (19 stitches)

Row 1.11: Ch2, 1 Tr in each of the next 15 stitches. Tr3tog. (17 stitches)

Row 1.12: Ch2, Tr2tog, 1Tr in each of the next 14 stitches. (15 stitches)

Row 1.13: Ch2, 1 Tr in each of the next 11 stitches. Tr3tog. (13 stitches)

Row 1.14: Ch2, Tr2tog, 1Tr in each of the next 10 stitches. (11 stitches)

Row 1.15: Ch2, 1 Tr in each of the next 7 stitches. Tr3tog. (9 stitches)

Row 1.16: Ch2, Tr2tog, 1Tr in each of the next 6 stitches. (7 stitches)

Row 1.17: Ch2, 1 Tr in each of the next 3 stitches. Tr3tog. (5 stitches)

Row 1.18: Ch2, Tr2tog, 1Tr in each of the next 2 stitches. (3 stitches)

Row 1.19: Ch2, Tr2tog. (1 stitch)

Cast off: Chain 1, cut yarn leaving a 10cm tail (Fig 8). Extend the loop on the hook until the tail pulls through. Pull tightly so the end is secure and the chain 1 has shrunk in size.

Give the triangle a little pull into shape. You should have a triangle with two sides that are ~25-26cm and a long side that is ~36cm (Fig 9). If your triangle is significantly bigger, make it again using a 4.5mm or 4mm hook. Don’t worry if the two short sides are not quite the same length, this will even out during blocking.

Triangle 2

Starting at the right-angled corner of the triangle you have just completed, you are going to work into the sides of rows 1-19 to anchor your next triangle (Fig 10).

Row 2.1: Using a 5mm crochet hook and Yarn 2 (Pink), start with a loop on your hook.

Working around (rather than into) the stitch post of the end of the blue row, SS to secure your yarn (Fig 10). Ch2. Work 1 Tr into the same space. Work 2Tr around each of the next 17 row-ends (Fig 11). Tr3tog to finish the row. The Tr3tog will be worked with 2 trebles in the side and 1 in the top of the last Tr3tog of Row 1.19 (Fig 12). (37 stitches - Tr3tog counts as 1 stitch)

Rows 2.2-2.9: Repeat rows 1.2 - 1.19 and cast off in the same way (Fig 13).

Make triangles 3 and 4 by following the same instructions as for triangle 2, using Yarn 3 (Teal) and Yarn 4 (Yellow) yarn.

Row 1 of each triangle is anchored to the side of the previous triangle, working out from the centre of the square. Work triangle 3 into the side of triangle 2, and triangle 4 into the side of triangle 3. You will end up with a square, with 1 unfinished seam between the 1st and 4th triangles. Each side should be ~36-37cm (Figures 14-17).

Sew in all your loose ends but don’t sew the square closed yet (Fig 17).

Sewing tips

• Run the yarn up the stitch posts or along the stitch feet, changing direction for a secure finish.

• Don’t sew your ends along the two open sides - keep them clear for seaming together in the next step.

• Don’t sew really tightly - keep the same tension as your crochet stitches. Tight patches will not block well when it comes to fitting your squares together. You may even prefer to leave sewing in these ends until after blocking.

Sewing Triangle 4 to Triangle 1

Firstly, look at the joins between Triangles 3 and 4. You will see how the feet of the trebles in Row 4.1 wrap around the end posts of the rows from triangle 3. Note how each “foot” is made of 2 strands of yarn, and how there are 2 feet in each gap (Fig 18a - right way up view, 18b - upside down view). You are going to replicate this appearance by sewing Triangle 4 to Triangle 1 using a simple whip stitch.

Cut 150cm of Yarn 1 (Blue) and thread onto a yarn needle. Pull the end at least a third of the way through the needle to make the long end as manageable as possible. Lay out your square as pictured in Figure 19. You may need to rotate the square/turn it over. This will be the back of your square.

Run your needle through the feet of the Triangle 2 (Pink) stitches until you reach the centre of the square to trap the end of your yarn (Fig 19). Leave a 10cm tail to sew in securely later.

Pass the needle under the ‘v’ of the starting chain that forms the bottom of the first (blue) stitch of Row 1.1 (Fig 20). This stitch is made of 2 chains and is mostly hidden by the foot of the adjacent (pink) triangle. Loosely sew around the end post of the Row 4.1 (Yellow) from the back to the front. Insert the needle back down through the same ‘v’ of the starting chain and back around the end of row 4.1 (Fig 21). Repeat once more so the stitch now has a 2-stranded foot (Fig 22).

Now insert the needle under the ‘v’ at the base of the 2nd blue stitch along (the first true treble of Row 1.1), and return the needle back around the end of row 4.1 (Fig 23).

Your next whip stitch will again go under the ‘v’ of stitch 2, but now around the end of Row 4.2 (Fig 24). Note how space 4.1 now has 4 whip stitches, mimicking the strands you see at the base of each pair of trebles in the other joins.

Your next whip stitch will go under the ‘v’ of stitch 3, and around the end of Row 4.2 (Fig 25). Repeat this stitch, giving the stitch a 2-stranded-foot (Fig 26). Now insert your needle through stitch 4 and back into the Row 4.2 gap (Fig 27). Complete this pair of stitches by inserting your needle through stitch 4 and into the Row 4.3 gap (Fig 28).

Continue sewing 2 trebles from triangle 1 to the row-end gaps of each row of Triangle 4 using the sequence illustrated above. You may need to re-thread your needle with another length of yarn if you run out. Secure the very last stitch into the top of the Tr3Tog in Row 4.9 (Fig 29). You will have sewn 39 “feet” in total (Fig 30, 31). Sew in the ends to secure.

Border

Turn your square over so the front of your work is facing you. If unsure, lay out your square as pictured in Fig 32.

Row B1: Using white, put a loop on your hook and Dc around the treble at the outer edge of Triangle 1 (blue) (Fig 33 & 34). Work 2 more Dc into the same space. Work 3Dc into each of the next 18 spaces (Fig 35 & 36). Take care to miss the gaps at the tops of each row and only work around the stitch posts at the end of each row (Fig 35). Chain 2 (Fig 37). *3DC into each of the next 19 spaces, Ch2*. Repeat from * to *, 2 more times, bringing you back to the beginning. Slip stitch into the first Dc of the round. Each side has 57 Dc with 2 chains in each corner (Fig 38).

Row B2: Chain 2 (counts as a stitch). *Work 1 Dc into each stitch of the side (Fig 39). When you get to the corner work [2Dc, Ch2, 2Dc] into the chain space (Fig 40)*. Repeat from * to * around each side. Slip stitch into the first Dc of the round. Each side will have 61 Dc plus 2 chains in each corner.

Note: Just after working into the corners, don't forget to work a Dc into the very first Dc of the first row of each side (Fig 41). They can be easy to miss with the crowded chain spaces.

Row B3: Chain 2 (counts as a stitch). *Work 1 Dc into each stitch of the side. When you get to the corner work [2Dc, Ch2, 2Dc] into the chain space*. Repeat from * to * around each side. Finish the round by putting a Dc into the last 2 stitches after the final corner (these are from the corner increase in row B2). For a smooth edge, use an invisible join in the first proper Dc of the round to finish the square (you can slip stitch to join if you prefer). Each side will have 65 Dc plus 2 chains in each corner (Fig 41).

Sew in your ends to secure. Your final square should measure approximately 40cm x 40cm. You should block your work to make your edges nice and square (Fig 42 & 43).

If your square is just under this size you can easily stretch it to size with a good wet blocking. If it is significantly smaller, you can add an additional row following the same pattern as Row B3 (you will finish with 69 Dc on each side plus 2 chains in each corner).

If your square is too big after Row B3, rip back and finish Row B2 with an invisible join and block well to square it off.

Sewing the cushion together

Once your square has been blocked, lay it over the front of the canvas cushion cover (Fig 44). Pin the corners in place, and the mid points of each side (Fig 45). Using a needle and thread, sew the square to the cushion by sewing through both loops of each crochet stitch along the edges. Fill the cover with a cushion pad and RELAX (Fig 46)!